Greek islands on the Seabourn Ovation

In the parlance of travel advisors, we divide our clients into 3 categories:

 1.  Those who need to eat in starred restaurants

  2.  Those who need to stay in 5-star hotels

  3.  Those who need to travel first or business class on airplanes

I can give up #1 and although I would always prefer to stay in 5-star hotel properties, I can drop down a peg or two.  HOWEVER, I cannot give up number 3 ( unless it is a very short flight). When you arrive at the airport, you go into a special check-in line for business and first.

Then you are allowed two checked bags per person, which they usually do not weigh.

Then there is a separate line for TSA cleared passengers, and you then head to the executive lounge to wait for your flight

However, with Covid, everything is different.  Lufthansa wanted to see our vaccination cards, but they just asked if we had a Covid test and really didn’t want to see the paperwork. And they asked if we filled out the PLF form for Greece (which we did but never got back a Q number).  No matter….we were in!

Got thru security quickly, only to find out that the Lufthansa lounge was still closed due to Covid.  We wandered around trying to find a restaurant that was open, and finally settled on a packaged salad.. Read our Kindle til they called our flight.  Off to Athens in an old 747 upstairs, and it was cool…temperature-wise, I mean.  No orchid growing on this flight! Hooray!!!

After one and a half years in isolation due to this Pandemic…what a relief it is to be able to travel again….and to be in the Aegean….it was heavenly.  Just what the Doctor ordered to put everything back into balance.

Greece and the Greek islands conjure up many magical thoughts.  And for us, memories of two prior trips when we were young and beautiful and capable of climbing the incredible hills to see the amazing ruins and views.

So many beaches, such historical sites to explore, and the food..oh my, the food.Exquisite.  And let’s not forget the gorgeous Greek jewelry, reflecting in its 22Carat patina the sun on days that reach 95degrees.  All in all, Greece has everything a person could want on vacation…topped with people who love American tourists and who were so glad to try and return to normal..whatever that means. Yes, people were wearing masks, and some businesses were closed, but enough were open and staffed, so that you didn’t feel as it it was a terrible time for the world.  Greece was ready to welcome us with open arms…and we responded in kind.

We were met at the airport by the hotel car, and whisked off to the Grande Bretagne,.the grande dame hotel in Athens.  She is a historical hotel, and every King, Queen, President who visits Athens stays here. It was a shame that the gorgeous room off the hotel lobby was closed due to Covid, but it is what it is. And the gorgeous bar that reminded us of the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis in NY is also closed.  They hope to reopen by August 15 The hotel was crazy busy due to all the people taking cruises staying there…and the cacophony in the lobby was deafening.  Good noises, tho.  Business as usual.

We took a taxi to the Lyccabettus area of Athens to have dinner.  I could have passed, but Dick wanted something before we collapsed.  So we had our first Greek salad and some calamari and octopus …and we knew we were in Greece.  The next two days, we wandered around town…some old sites and some new ones, like the Contemporary Museum which has a lovely collection.  It was really hot in Athens, so we began to learn how to get up early, explore, avoid the noon day sun, and then explore again after 3.

 

The second night we went to a restaurant out near the Four Seasons, about a 40-minute drive from the city center.  It was a nice ride and we got a taste of what Athens is all about other than downtown. The Ithaniki is just gorgeous.  She sits right on a bay overlooking a gorgeous inlet filled with MAJOR yachts.  What a view. Dinner was Asian fusion and just amazing.  The sushi was incredible and I had octopus again..only this time is was tender and not chewy.  Had an amazing sauce as well. We both slept on the taxi ride home.  We are getting old, I fear.

 We really enjoy Athens, and any trip must include at least 3 days here before heading into the islands. On our last night, we ate at the rooftop restaurant of the hotel.  Dick got the premier table with the unobstructed view of the Acropolis and the Parthenon.  What a way to say “goodbye” to Athens and begin our sojourn into the islands.  Tomorrow we set sail.  HB Ken!!!!!

DAY ONE….BOARD IN ATHENS

The Seabourn Ovation was to be our home away from home for the next 14 days.  The cruise was divided into 7-day itineraries….as some people only chose to sail for 7 days.  We took the back-to-back, which was 14 days.  The Ovation normally holds around 600 passengers, but as this was the second sailing, there were only 340 passengers.  On the second leg, there were only 296.  Some people were still afraid of the virus, and with the new Delta strain making an appearance, being on a floating petrie dish didn’t seem like a good idea to many.  To us, tho, we thought the ship would never be clearner,  and the protocols would never be as mandated, so we uploaded our PLF file, got a Covid test 72 hours ahead of time and headed to the port.  And guess what?  They did another Covid test before they let us board the ship!!! My nose is getting used to this.

The verandah cabins on the Ovation are mostly all alike.  Just the position on the ship makes the differences.  Our cabin was way forward  and everything on the ship was AFT, so I got my steps in just walking to a meal.  She is a gorgeous ship and the beauty is in the service as well as the decor.  Everyone knew us by name within two days…..quite amazing.

There is nothing you can ask for that isn’t delivered…including caviar and top drawer liquor.

The champagne flows freely….and smiles are always on everyone’s faces.  It is just joyous.

We had dinner in the dining room that night..which was really nice.  But we like eating outdoors if possible, so we most likely wouldn’t be coming down there again.

Ready for Patmos tomorrow.

DAY TWO….PATMOS

Patmos is lovely but is where the end of the world began.  We tendered into this wonderful stop only to find a souvenir booth manned by a priest.  This is the place where St.John wrote the Book of Revelations which forms the closing pages of the New Testament. He wrote of terrible things that would not auger well for mankind.  Some passengers took the winding road up to the cave in which he was supposed to have seen visions about the final judgment.  Had we walked that road, I would have seen visions!!! Trust me, no winding road to a dark cave for me or Dick….ever.

Anyway it was a fun stop and we are now back in our little bit of heaven.  BTW, shopkeepers wore masks and asked that we do the same.  A few even asked if we were vaccinated.  It was a fun day.  

We haddinner with the singer Amber that evening.  Would have passed, but it was too early to be rude.  Might meet some nice people.   

DAY THREE…..SEA DAY.  Today is a sea day and just glorious.  Seeing everyone in casual clothes and bathing suits is a hoot.  At the pool they pass cool towels, drinks and sun screens.  Eyeglass cleaners, too.

Dick went up to the RETREAT near the spa and booked a private cabana for us the next sea day.  It was heavenly.  Very private and you could even get a massage in your cabana.  Maybe a foot massage would be in order.

It was REALLY HOT….OMG, like a microwave inside a convection oven. BUT, we were cruising the Greek Isles, and the colors of the sea were translucent so I was not going to complain.  In fact, we were not even able to sit outside in the Colonnade restaurant because of the heat. Not even a breeze.  Maybe tomorrow.

DAY FOUR…..PAPHOS, CYPRUS

We landed in Paphos, Cyprus early this morning.  We were warned that we could be singled out for a Covid test upon arrival and we needed to each fill out a formal declaration that we were healthy.  Upon landing, no one looked at us, so we headed ashore.  It was a long walk to get a taxi and it was really hot already.

Paphos was the center of the cult of Aphrodite, or Venus, as some people called her.  Her legendary birthplace was on this island, and her temple was erected here in the 12th c BC.  

According to Homer (and he should know), she was the epitome of beauty and love and she inspired poets, writers and artists to extoll her virtues.  And she wasn’t even real!!!

About 40 minutes drive up a craggy mountainous road, you come to a plateau of visible ruins.  The remains of villas, palace, theater, fortresses and tombs mean that this site is of exceptional importance and historic value..hence a UNESCO treasure. The mosaics are still mainly intact and they depict scenes and faces from Greek mythology. Really amazing. They are so preserved, they could have been done yesterday.

In fact they are so special, they are protected by the Committee for the Protection of Cultural Property in the Event of Armed Conflict( good luck with that protection) Just don’t want these treasures destroyed like in Syria.  Morocco protects the ones in Vassubelous.

Whether Aphrodite was born here on not and whether she is fantasy or not…the town loves their lovely lady.  And in the Old Town, there are souvenir stands with her likeness, as well as stores selling linens, dresses, jewelry, and everything imaginable.This was a lovely stop.

DAY FIVE…..RHODES

Rhodes, the largest of the Dodecanese Islands (spelling?) is not just a holiday resort.  It is a cosmopolitan place with an international reputation.  We were in the Old Town, which is amazing in its history, and charming in its contents.  Tourists like us walk the narrow streets to visit the churches, museums and fortress walls.  And if you listen carefully, you can hear the footsteps of the medieval knights (I am trying not to get too “Out there”). But the Knights of St. John were here during the crusades 2400 years ago, and that conjures up many books and movies of the Crusaders.

The ancient history mixes with the modern life and that is really fascination.  The Palace of the Grand Masters is now a historical museum.  First it was captures by the Ottomans, and then half by the Romans and finally it is a museum .  What a transition.

We ate lunch near an old hamman (a spa with baths) and near that was the inns of the “tongues”.  They are national guards who make up the Order of the Knights.  They put on a show, but we missed it, and the later one was too late.  They are dressed in the traditional uniform…the white tunic and tasseled shoes.  It must be something to see.  Next time.

People who went to see the Colossus of Rhodes were really disappointed, as there was nothing to see.  I remember from the last time.  We went to the sea, and there were two columns bridging a waterway where they say it stood.  In reality, historians have no clue what it looked like.or for that matter, where it really stood.  They just take you to this spot and say “It might have been here but has been destroyed”.

The Old Town is very touristy, and few locals live there….but it is a marvelous place and the beaches are glorious.

Let me just address the Rhodes scholars for a minute.  If you are between the ages of 18-24 and  you have an undergrad degree with a GPA of 3.7 or higher, you can apply.  You need to be nominated by your university and approved.  32 candidates come from the US, DC and territories.  If you really want this scholarship, you should go to Harvard, as they have produced 359 scholars, including Bill Clinton.  It covers all expenses for 2 or 3 years of graduate study, plus a stipend of $70,000 per year.  It is one of the most selective scholarships in existence.

OK…let’s get back to the history of Rhodes.  The acropolis of Rhodes dates from the Classical Greek period, and it is only 3k from the center of the town.  The partially reconstructed part of the site consists of the Temple of Apollo…below which is a stadium and a small amphitheater.  It is hard to concentrate cause it is so hot. But Rhodes is amazing.

Well, back to the ship and set sail.  BTW..Happy Bastille Day.  It is July 14.I think….We are losing all sense of time and days.  Just know that it is going too quickly.

DAY SIX—SANTORINI (THIRA)

Our good friend Kostas Antoniou met us at the top of the cable car with his adorable dog Penelope.  We have not seen each other for at least 8 years, and it seems like yesterday.  I wore the necklace he sold us 30 years ago and he recognized it immediately.  I think he was very touched that I still had it, and that I still wore it.

We went to his charming cafe and his adorable wife Antonia made us a fantastic fruit smoothie.  We visited for about an hour and then Kostas ordered a car to take us to Oia for a couple of hours while he prepared lunch.

Oia is a small coastal town carved out of the cliffs, about 45 minutes from Fira.  The main attractions are the vistas and the sunsets…and the shopping.  And the blue domes on top of the whitewashed buildings, And the Caldera..which is a cauldron-like volcanic depression.  Santorini is considered an active volcano, but it is dormant.  That is why there are black sand beaches and red sand beaches.  Santorini’s 1/2 moon shaped bay is the center of the caldera which collapsed during the Minoan civilization leading to its’ decline…just like Pompei.  The depth is 400 m…so big ships can anchor in the bay. The town of Fira clings to the top of the cliff and looks down on the lagoon.  Fira is more casual than Oia.  

OK…history time….or fractured history time.  Whatever you choose to believe.

Santorini is supposed to be the birth place of Apollo and Artemis.  Legend has it that Zeus came down from Mt. Olympus to have a tryst with Leto and when she became pregnant with the twins, Zeus’s wife Hera was really enraged.  She banished Leto from all the lands of the earth….HARSH…. But the sea-god Poseiden took pity and anchored this floating island as a safe place for her to birth the twins.

Now, Santorini is connected with the lost city of Atlantis.  No.…this is for real.  Scholars studying the excavations at Akrotiri concluded that the lost Atlantis was Santorini…why?  Because the Minoan site of Akrotiri was covered in Volcanic ash by the eruption of Thira.  The gods sent a battalion of fire and earthquakes so intense the the Utopian kingdom sank deep into the ocean, never to be found again (unless you go the the Bahamas).  Proof exists in the red, black and white pebbles from the beach.  So there you have it…Proof indeed.

Our driver took us back to Kostas” cafe around 3:30, where we were feted with the most amazing homemade pasta upon which sat the biggest langoustines I have ever seen.

And a Greek salad with the most fantastic tomatoes grown in volcanic soil…and cucumbers…oh my.  And a bowl of beets that were as sweet as sugar.  Everything was just delicious, and everything came from Santorini.  I have never in my life tasted anything as wonderful.

It was truly a magical day…filled with memories from years gone by.  Very bittersweet…mainly because of the Covid.  Tonia wore a mask, but Kostas did not.  He said we didn’t have to, so we took ours off.

His cafe only serves outside now, and his jewelry store is closed.  So sad. Hopefully things will get better soon.  We left hoping that when their son Kostantinos gets married in two years, Dick and I will be able to be in Santorini to celebrate with them.  And Kostas will be healthy and be able to dance with his son..Sigh

DAY SEVEN…SPETSES

I had made prior plans to go see the Aman hotel…Amanzoe..when we got to the island of Spetses.  We tendered to the Poseiden Dock, then hired a private water taxi to the town of Kosta, where we got a taxi to the hotel.  It wasn’t easy, but so worth it.

We met with Tina…the head of sales. She took us on a wonderful site inspection of this glorious property which is almost sold-out.  People want to travel, and the Amans are where they want to be.  This one sits high up on a hill commanding a magnificent view of the Beach Club below and a wonderful beach.

Tina showed us a 9 bedroom villa on the property which is mind blowing.  Wish I had clients who could take this accommodation!!!. If someone wants elegance and privacy and seclusion, this is the place to be.It is a WOW!!!

After a wonderful lunch at the beach club, we reversed our travels and got back to the dock by 3.  We had two hours to shop and wander and because Spetses is quite an affluent island, the stores were lovely.  I could have spent a lot of money here.and as it was, I did OK with the short time allotted me.  Speed shopping at its finest.

The locals here are mainly engaged in shipping and fishing.  It was in Spetese that the revolution flag was raised in 1821.  Another factoid…the Venetians used to call this island Isola do Spezzie, which means the island of aromas.  I didn’t smell too many spices in the main town, but who knows.

We got back to the ship and it left exactly at 5.  Guess no one was missing.  We had dinner at Thomas Keller’s Grill.  We like Ad Hoc better…but it was a lot of fun anyway.  It is a lovely venue and the service is just exemplary

DAY EIGHT……DOCKED IN ATHENS

In Athens today  where the “poor buggers had to get off”…as Jackie and Barry always said.  Thank goodness we have another week.  We went to the pool and just watched the passing parade.  Lots of new faces, but we were told that there are fewer people on this leg than on the prior one.  Lucky for us….more service if that is even possible.

DAY NINE…..AGIOS NIKOLAOS, CRETE

Crete is one of the most popular Mediterranean destinations in existence .  This island is the largest in Greece and combines everything a traveler might want…historical sites, great food, many bars and great nightlife and pristine beaches.  The Minoans, from the Bronze Age, flourished here the the remains of their palaces are still visible…like the Palace of Knossos.  And of course, each culture and each conqueror passed thru here leaving important traces on the island.  The food here is very healthy.…lots of veggies and smoothies..and they offer samples on the street. We tried a green one, and for someone who HATES green jello..I have to admit that it was good.  Who would have thought?

Agios Nikolaos is best known as a tourist town that serves as a hub for 20 or so small villages that make up this province.  Altho is is primarily a resort town with tree-lined streets and modern architecture.  …the locals adhere to a stronger sense of history.

Some of the people  from the ship took a ferry to the tiny island of Spinalonga, which has an old Venetian fortress.  It was turned into an ex-leper colony at the beginning of the 20th century. We opted to eat a lovely lunch and shop.  Gorgeous afternoon

DAY 10…..SEA DAY

As if all of this decadence on the Ovation wasn’t enough, we added a day at the Retreat into the mix.

On Deck 11, right in front of the spa, Seabourn has outfitted 15 cabanas complete with a flatscreen tv,  a refrigerator, a stocked bar with juices and booze.  Each cabana has a curtain to close it off for privacy if you want to sleep or get a spa treatment.  There is a large jacuzzi, plus outdoor showers and lovely bathrooms.  Lunch was by room service and they served top drawer wines…like Chalk Hill and Rombauer Chard.  The Retreat is open from 9-6 for all day people, and 9-2 for 1/2 day.  It is nothing short of amazing….and well worth the extra money.

But only if you like passed cold towels, sun screen, glass cleaner, frozen fruit, smoothies….and of course, the ubiquitous champagne  .I could live up here forever.

DAY 11…..LIMASSOL, CYPRUS

Limassol is a center of Cypriot culture, including wine-making, business and schooling.

The Byzantines and the British added to a lot of the architecture .  Graves have been uncovered from 2000BC.  History factoid:  Apollo Hylates was the big guru here and there are lots of magnificent building from his reign. A Greek Roman theater was built in his time, as well as a basilica from the 5th century AD.  Unfortunately, there is lots of grafitti on all the buildings, which marred the beauty of the town it once was.  This was not a favorite stop of mine.

So, we headed back to the ship…our little bubble for another 4 days…had a lovely lunch and rested at the pool.

DAY 12 ……BACK TO RHODES

One disadvantage of taking a Back-to-back cruise, is that you might have to experience one or two places twice. For us, it was Rhodes.  But this time we had a different agenda.

We went into town early and walked around, trying for our 10,000 steps….or at least getting a jump on them.

Then at 12:30 , we boarded a tour bus bound for Lindos to see the second most famous acropolis in Greece.  We were spaced well…and kept our masks on, Lindos is about one hour from the Old Town and our guide gave us a running commentary along the route

Soon we were able to see where some were going..870 steps to the top.  No switchbacks…straight up.  Which means, to those of you with bad knees..straight down!!! Tough.

Our guide said that we could hire a taxi to take us to almost the top, but the taxi stops at 210 steps short of the top, and that was too much for me.  People who did it (after they could talk) told us that the ruins were fabulous and the view, of course, was amazing.  I will have to take their word for it….as I did in Cambodia at the Angkor Wat.  That temple was 900 years old and I made it to the second level, but not to the third.  One of life’s mysteries, I guess.  But I did climb the pyramid in Mexico City…and you know what….a view is a view……what can I say?

Taking a ship’s tour is good because the guides impart lots of information that you wouldn’t

get otherwise, But I would still rather take a private car and punt.  And besides, with a private car, you don’t have to stop at the ceramic factory on the way back to “see how pottery is made, and maybe buy something”.  Dick loves this more than life itself.  Let’s see, we have been to carpet factories, weaving factories, ceramic factories, jewelry factories.  I know this is how they make a living, but it is a bit off-putting.  I bought some bowls for nuts and olives.

DAY 13….MYKONOS

Mykonos is the St. Barths of Greece, and everyone loves it….for good reason.  It is one of the most beautiful places ever,  and looks just like the postcards:  little white houses with blue windows, and doors and roofs with bougainvillea wrapping around everything.  There are hand painted streets, windmills and wonderful restaurants and cafes.  And did I mention the beaches?  Just amazing.  Getting lost in Mykonos is like getting lost in Venice…..so much fun and so much to see.

According to mythology Mykonos was the place where Heracles killed the giants.  And the rocks all around the island are supposed to be the corpses.  Isn’t that fantastic..OK, another history factoid:  Zeus was married to Hera, but fooled around a lot (go back to Santorini).

Anyway, he had an affair with mortal woman names Alcmene,, and Hera sought to destroy this baby.  BUT Zeus gave him powers beyond, and everything Hera threw at him, he was able to turn around.  Even killed a snake in his crib..

He was the most popular figure from ancient Greece. He was a half-god of superhuman strength and passions, and he was the epitome of bravery.  Everyone (except Hera) loved Hercules.

OK, back to modern times.  The island was invaded by every conquering nation, and was held by the Venetians from 1207 until the Turks invaded in the latter part of the 16th century.  The War of Independence broke out in 1821, and the Turks were trying to invade at that time.  But they lost.   Mykonos held them off, and it remains in Greek hands to this day..

Mykonos is clean and affluent and lovely..  I watched a young man painting scuff marks off his wall at the door…just like they do on the ship.  When you want the quintessential Greek idea of what an island should look like…look no further.  Mykonos is it.

DAY 14…NAFPLION

From whitewashed homes with blue doors, we travel to a place back in time,  with Venetian mansions, narrow streets, monuments and statues.  This is Nafplion.  It is a 2-hour drive from Athens, and is among the most beautiful towns in mainland Greece,

It is in eastern Peloponnese, and was the first capital of the newly born Greek state between 1823-1834,  Nafplion has an intense Medieval atmosphere and when you walk around the paved streets in the Old Town, you can hear and feel the footsteps of those who have gone before.  Historians say that the the history of Nafplion traces back to the prehistoric era.  We are talking Trojan War and the Argonautic expedition.

  

The town flourished during the Byzantine era, and when you walk thru the town, you can see where other conquerors left their mark. It is a polyglot of architecture, ancient walls, medieval castles and lots of statues. I said that before, but it is worth repeating.  It is truly a beautiful town and some say, one of the most romantic cities in the world. 

 To me, they all all romantic…How can you look at the colors of the sea, and the colors of the beaches, and watch a glorious sunset while eating an amazing meal and not feel romantic.  Add to that, a gentle breeze blowing after a blistering day of sunshine…it is heavenly.

Day 15…. ATHENS

Well, Dick and I are now the “POOR BUGGERS WHO HAVE TO GET OFF” and we are really sad to leave.  This magical ship, our own private bubble, has kept us safe, while whisking us away to amazing islands, and filling us with Greek mythology that intrigues our minds.

We are filled with wonderful memories of a truly sensational ship staffed with truly amazing people, taking us to truly incredible places that everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.  

I know there are lots of places in the world, but I hope we can return to Greece.