Sonoma Coast

SONOMA COAST

So, what do you do after a wonderful family event in Los Gatos and you aren’t ready to head back to the grind of your everyday life in LA?  I suggested the Sonoma Coast…using Bodega Bay as our jumping off point.

Bodega Bay conjures up a lot of things for most people…and top on the list is FABULOUS FOOD!!! (Others vying for the top of the list are GREAT WINES, AMAZING OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES, SPECTACULAR SCENERY TO ENJOY and of course…the town of Bodega, itself, where Alfred Hitchcock filmed his famous movie…”The Birds”).

We drove up from Los Gatos, thru the fabulous redwood forests all along Highway 1 .  It is a gorgeous ride, and with each passing mile, another layer of stress sheds itself…leaving you open to take in the gorgeous sights and smells of the coast.

We stayed at the Bodega Bay Lodge, which is the “quintessential California coastal retreat”.  It is situated on a bluff, and has fantastic views of the rugged Sonoma coastline.  It is hard to believe that you are only one hour away from San Francisco…as you have entered a world of quiet and beauty of nature.  We couldn’t wait to explore.

Within 5 to 10 minutes of the hotel, there is a lovely beach….and the marsh adjacent to the hotel is a wildlife preserve filled with all kinds of birds.  Walking thru the tidelands is an amazing adventure, one that cannot be measured by “city experiences”.  We saw swans and pelicans and lots of other birds I cannot describe.  The trumpeter swans I was able to recognize, cause they woke us every morning…just like a trumpet!!!

We drove around a bit more, and came back to the hotel in time for a wine tasting event.  It was fun.  Then we had dinner in the hotel restaurant…the Duck Club.  It was a beautiful presentation and a wonderful menu. Then we collapsed after a wonderful day with treats for all our senses.

The next morning, we woke up to the sound of the swans…..and  headed out to go whale watching. We wanted to do that first, as it was the entrance to Bodega Harbour,  a 3-mile easy walk to the rocky “headland”. We thought we would be the only people there, but obviously others were doing the same thing.   We were lucky enough to experience a pod of 20 whales, cavorting in the ocean on their way down to Mexico.  What a thrill.  We thought we would only see one if we were lucky…but 20!!!! So we stayed for close to an hour just watching them play.

We were told that the kayaking, canoeing and surfing is spectacular in Bodega Bay…but since we were there in November…the only thing on the water was deep sea fishing.  AND, we were missing crab season by one week….There was no commercial crabbing yet…just a few private people who were lucky enough to get licenses. 

However, the kite flying was in full swing…and we were told that Bodega Bay is one of the greatest places to fly kites…as the wind “always blows”.

As I mentioned at the beginning, no trip to this coast would be complete without stopping in the small 19^th century town of Bodega (not to be confused with Bodega Bay), where Alfred Hitchcock filmed “The Birds”.  So we headed there next.

 The Church, which was featured in the movie, was dedicated in 1861, and still holds services every week.  The schoolhouse that was in the movie is also still there, but is now a private home.  There is a giftshop that has a replica of Hitch himself standing outside…quite creepy since it is very lifelike.  And there are still birds that swoop around the town!!!

We decided that even tho we couldn’t get crabs, we had to try the grilled  oysters in Bodega Bay….so we headed back  there for lunch.

Our host, Tyler, shucked the oysters, slathered garlic sauce on them, and threw them on the outside grill.  It was a bit chilly to eat outside…but the oysters were FANTASTIC!!! Can only imagine what it is like in season, with all the boats going in and out with their daily catches of oysters, crabs and whatever fish in available. 

For those people really into oysters, the agricultural town of Tomales, which was settled in the 1850’s and today has a population of 250 people, is about 20 minutes south of Bodega Bay.  There is sustainable oyster farming there, and you can buy “oysters-to-go” and have a picnic at the Tamales Bay Oyster Company.  Since I am not into shucking them myself..I prefer someone making them for me….and I am now a devotee of grilled oysters!!.

The next day we decided to explore a bit further afield. We knew there were other small towns to see…like Duncan Mills and Jenner. So we took our map, and set off.  We wound up at River’s End  having lunch.  It was lovely.  They also have a few private cabins along the end of the river for guests…and they were charming.  No TV’s or wi-fi, however…so you are really checking out.

On the way back, we stopped in the town of Occidental  at an amazing hotel called the Union, which I have heard a lot about.  It has been in the Gonnella family for generations, since 1925 in fact,  and the  grandchildren run it now.  It also is a compilation of cabins (2-4 bedrooms each), that are just wonderful.  There is a big dining room where the guests have assigned tables…and a charming patio outside (where wi-fi reigns).  And did I mention that the food is FANTASTIC???? Not just good,…but fantastic.  I know the people in the Sonoma area recognize how wonderful the chef is…and it is a real California treasure.  This hotel and restaurant is a MUST and well worth the trip.

We brought home bread and dessert that night from the Union because the  presidential elections were on and we wanted to watch.  So we stopped at the Spud Point Crab Company…home of the World Famous Clam Chowder…and got our Bodega Bay dinner to eat in our room.  That, along with some fantastic wine from the area and a magnificent dessert…what could be better?

And President Obama was declared the winner by 7:30!!!!

What an ending to a fabulous stay in Bodaga Bay.  We will be back…that is for sure.