cambodia

Having been in Bangkok 3 times, and never getting to the Angkor Wat was torture for me. So when Dick said he had to be in Singapore and Bangkok...I said "This time make time for Cambodia!!"
So after his business was concluded...we flew to Siem Reap, where we were met by a lovely man named Pauli, who was to be our constant companion for the next two days.
He took us to the Raffles hotel so that we could check in. Once again..and here it comes....this is a MAGIC property. Ok...so I said it for you...how can there be so many of these? It is just that I need to see these places as much as need to see the Angkor Wat.
The Raffles was the old Grand Hotel in Siem Reap...and it is fabulous. As its sister in Singapore, you are greeted on the drive way, lead into the hotel lobby, and handed a cool towel to wipe your hands. There is ALWAYS someone to greet you. And then you are escorted to your room. The normal rooms in the hotel are lovely. They could be a bit updated by some standards...but if it meant changing the feeling...then I would opt not. If it means new pipes and new air conditioning and new electrical...then I am all for it. But don't ever change the feeling of the history. That is what is so difficult to maintain.
We were lucky enough to have been given a major suite in a lanai at the pool. It was AMAZING...I could have lived there forever. The bedroom was huge, with a lovely porch off of it on one side, and a very large bath with a separate tub and shower. There was also another bathroom off the living room/dining room combination...and a full kitchen. As I said, I could live there forever.
The dining room in the hotel where we ate breakfast and lunch was just lovely...only to be matched by the service and the food. If I hadn't mentioned it before, the service at this hotel is fantastic. They are so well trained, and make you feel as if this is your home. It made me fall in love with Cambodia so quickly. I was already hyperventilating that we only had two night here. Much too short..but I was grateful for anything...having tried to get here so many times.

Our guide took us first to the Angkor Thom, where we got on top of an elephant for a ride from the South gate to the main complex. It was quite an amazing thing...being on this huge mammal...and I must admit, I liked it better than the camel in Morocco!!
We then went to Ta Prohm, which is the jungle-clad temple with overgrown trees.and roots. It was one of the creepiest places, cause the jungle had almost swallowed it up, and the roots are HUGE!!!.These roots move the huge rocks and comprised the temple walls, which is why it has almost been reclaimed by the jungle.
That night we took a tuk-tuk (a motorized bike with a seat for two on the back) into town. The first thing we did was watch a group of people having the dead skin on their feet being nibbled off by a tank of fish. I never thought in my lifetime that I would be one of those people...but I did it!!! I really did. It is the oddest sensation. You sit around this tank, and there are people on all sides, and put your feet into about a foot of water. Then these little fish come over to you, and grab onto your toes and start nibbling!!! After I quit laughing (cause I am very ticklish) it becomes sort of relaxing...altho I never moved onto the larger tank...filled with bigger fish. The little ones were just fine. They charged $2.00 for a 1/2 hour of "pleasure". By the way, did I mention that all prices in Cambodia are quoted in US dollars? True!!! and how nice after coming out of two countries that we had to convert either Sing dollars or Baht!!
Anyway, after my feet were cleaned...we had our first dinner in Cambodia. I see now why everyone raves about Viet Nam and the French influence in their cooking. The same is in Cambodia...and the food was delicate, light and exquisite. We wandered about the town a bit...and then went home and collapsed. Had dreams about elephants, temples and my toes!!

The next day we went to the Angkor Wat...the reason for being in Siem Reap. It was built around 900...and is still used as a Buddhist temple today. What can I say? The carvings are unreal and the massive hallways are the way they were a thousand years ago!!
Much like the Taj, the time to see the Angkor Wat is either at sunrise or sunset...when the light is the most favorable on all of the surfaces. We chose the night...hopefully to catch a break in the humidity, as well. It was a perfect choice. What a treasure.
Was it worth the flight, the visa, the traveling to get there? ABSOLUTELY...it should be bumped up on anyone's list of places to see. And do it while you can climb up the steep steps and see the view from the top of the Angkor Wat. We only got to the second level. When the guide pointed to the staircase to heaven, and took a pass. I knew I could get up.....it was the coming down that scared me!!! This is someplace to experience in your 40's.

After a long day of major sightseeing, my eyes hurt from all the beauty it had seen. And my mind hurt from trying to take in all the history. Lest it to say....I hope to come back and experience more of Cambodia. The people are hospitable, the sites are fantastic, the food is incredible and the country is filled with history and treasures to explore.

bangkok 2011

After leaving Singapore, we headed to Bangkok. We have not been here in 2 years, and unlike Singapore, not much has changed. Our favorite hotel, the Mandarin Oriental remains a haven in the repertoire of magic properties. I know I say that a lot...but to me, there are hotels...wonderful hotels...and magic properties.
The Beverly Hills Hotel is a magic property...the Peninsula is a wonderful hotel. To be magical, there has to be a history and a reason that people keep coming back year after year. Is it to be greeted by hotel staff no matter what time you arrive with a bracelet of jasmine that smells divine? Or is it to have staff put you into an elevator, and have your butler greet you on your floor and take you to your room? Or maybe, the welcoming drink or "amuse-bouche" that they bring, as the panorama of the river opens up to your room.Whatever it is, whatever the combination, the Mandarin Oriental has it.

Bangkok is a city filled with traffic noise, and people moving quickly from one place to another.Not the people in cars, however. They move VERY SLOWLY because the traffic is worse than the 405 at rush hour.But the speed train is a wonderful way to navigate the city...and it is easy to figure out.

Having dissed the traffic, and the heat, let me just say that Bangkok is also a city filled with tradition and beauty wherever you go.
Life on the Chao Phraya River is amazing...and the boats scurry around filled with foodstuffs, people and goods to sell. To be in Bangkok, you must experience the river. The Buddhist temples are amazing, and you can see some from the river itself.
We went to the Wat Po, the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace...all on the river. We also saw schools for the children, as well as hospitals and fabulous restaurants. Rive life is a major part of Bangkok.

Because we were there on a week-end, we were able to experience the Chatuchak Market. It is about 30 minutes out of town, and is HUGE. It is filled with stalls only open on week-ends that have "antiques", clothing, jewelry and touristy-stuff. It is not as good as the week-end market in Beijing...which is AMAZING....but it was fun, nevertheless. We didn't find any treasures...but we got to experience what the Thai people did on Saturdays!!!

The restaurants are wonderful, and for those of us who eat Thai food all the time, to taste it in its Mother Country is a real treat. The blend of spices, along with the seafood is taking your tongue for a real gastronomic journey. We cannot match it at home, and I think that is because of the spices. We had dinner one night on the river (the restaurant sent their boat for us) and had the freshest shrimp, crab and fish I have ever eaten. It was all done by pointing....and we savored every morsel!!
I hope to return to Bangkok again...as it is truly a wonderful city. Next time for longer than 3 days!!!

Singapore

Singapore....what does the name conjure up for those of you who have heard it mentioned in history and literature? A polyglot of cultures and people, all sharing the same diamond-shaped flat land measuring 26 miles across and 14 miles from top to bottom. Singapore island is the main island, with about 60 smaller ones surrounding it. It is relatively small in size, but makes up for it in culture and history.
Lying at the crossroads of the East and West...what a blend of Chinese, Malays, Indians, Arabs, Brits and European and American ex-pats. No wonder people have a hard time defining a Singaporean...it is like defining an American!
The Singapore River is the main focal point of the island. It is located in the southern part of the island and flows from west to east. All along the banks, the Chinese built row houses, with businesses on the bottom and homes on the top. Those used to be the flavor of Singapore, filled with opium dens, gambling casinos and restaurants. Today, it has been cleaned out, and now houses law firms, gentrified apartments and upscale restaurants. So much for the old flavor of Singapore. But it is still a lovely place to take a walk...and eat wonderful food.

The north bank of the river is the historic area, where most of the government buildings are. And that is where Orchard Road was developed. Mainly for the Europeans, huge homes and plantations gave way to huge hotels and shopping arcades. One after another, filled with the ubiquitous High-end universal stores: Gucci, Prada, Dior and Takashemaya. You could shop for days and never make a dent! And we tried!!.
The newest area in Singapore is the Marina Bay, which is now a focal point in the city. The Marina Bay Sands Hotel and Resort is comprised of three hotel towers connected on the top by a "boat-shaped" pool and recreation area. The casino is in the lower level of the buildings. What an addition to the skyline!! Once all the office buildings and luxury condos are completed, it will encircle the bay,making it quite a sight.

And outside of the urban area, on the island of Sentosa, they have built 4 major hotels...with two more on the drawing board. These hotels share a huge casino. To avoid having Singaporeans coming to gamble, you need a passport to get into the casino. And they check very well.
The property is amazing. There is a Family Hotel, a Hard Rock Hotel, a High-end hotel named after the architect who designed the resort, and a Major Gambler Hotel for High Rollers...complete with lanai accommodations that are spectacular. They also have their own gambling casino...exclusively for people who aim to gamble at least 2 million dollars!!!

And let's not forget Universal Studios..which is on the Sentosa property. It is quite something for everyone!!! You can go for the day (it is connected by bridge to Singapore and only takes 30 minutes) or for a week.
While we were in Singapore, they were hosting the 2011 Biennale. Much like the one in Venice and in South Beach...it was held in different venues from March thru May. The art was exciting, different, and very interesting.
The Merlion...the combination of a lion and a mermaid, is the symbol of Singapore.You can see its picture at the beginning of my article. Well, an artist encased the Merlion in a huge red box, and made it the world's smallest hotel. He put a bed and an ensuite toilet in the space, and people are renting it out for a night!!! It is quite an installation, and makes the wrapping of the Reichstag in Berlin almost passe. In case you missed it on your last trip, the Singapore Art Museum is great...and their permanent collection is very impressive.

We stayed at the Raffles Hotel, which is always my first choice. As I have said many times, this is a magical property. The history follows you from the moment you get out of your car, and are welcomed by Mr. Singh, the the Sikh who greets you on the driveway. "Welcome back" never sounds so good as it does here. He is probably the most photographed man in Singapore!!

The rooms at the Raffles are all suites, and depending on the position it faces, is how it is ranked. Also, if famous people resided in the suites, like James Michener, John Wayne,Noel Coward and Joseph Conrad, then they are now called "Personality Suites"...and cost a bit more.

In 1887, when the Sarkie Brothers opened the Raffles Hotel...all the plantation owners as well as the high society came to see this magnificent structure. And from then on, it was a focal point in the city of Singapore. Visiting Kings, Queens, authors, movie stars....everyone stayed at the Raffles. And when she was closed in 1989 for renovation, everyone was worried what would happen. Well....everything happened for the best. The "innards" were all updated...and the hotel kept her flavor.
Now, rumor has it , that the company with controlling interest in the hotel wants to shut her down for a year to do another extensive update. They are considering keeping the Long Bar open during that time, so that the loyal customers to the fantastic group who entertains there 24-7 will have somewhere to still go until the doors can re-open. One can only pray that the management will respect the history and tradition this fantastic property displays. The Raffles in Singapore has few rivals.

When people say that Singapore has lost its mojo because it is so clean, so safe, and so inviting...just be glad that they don't want you to chew gum and spit it on the street. Singapore should serve as an example of how wonderful a place can be with no graffitti marring any buildings. I long to go back...as it is a very special place.