Saturday, June 28, 2014

Amsterdam

At first glance, Amsterdam seems to confirm all of the images by which we know it.  Canals, coffeehouses, trams and bicycles.  Oh, yes, and tulip fields and windmills. And ART...everywhere.

But Amsterdam is also a polyglot of culture.  Because it has always been tolerant of differences, Amsterdam has opened its arms and borders to people of all races and color.  The Spanish Jews avoiding religious persecution, the French Huguenots..refugees from Africa and Asia.  And don't forget young people who have flocked here because of Amsterdam's relaxed stance on social issues.  It is truly a city of people who respect each other, and each other's differences. 

Having said that, the restaurants are varied and wonderful, the music is ecclectic and the art....how do you measure the Dutch Masters to the Moderns? The city is full of elegant canals and magnificent houses abound....and then there is the Red Light District.  What a mixture to make this city flourish.

We stayed at the Legend Sofitel...which originally was an old monastery right along a major canal.
The hotel is wonderful...and the service is exemplary.  Nothing asked was too much...and the staff was always there to help in any way.  We had a lovely suite overlooking the courtyard. with a bathroom as large as mine at home!!

Our first day we wandered around getting our bearings.  We have been here before and had done most of the sites, but it has been a while.  So we got to Dam Square and oriented ourselves.  Truthfully, however, I don't remember the traffic being this horrific!!! If you don't get hit by a car, then the tram will get you.  And if not the tram, then the bicycles will.  I never knew which way to look.  If we thought the bikes in Vietnam were treacherous...the ones here are worse!!! In Amsterdam, everyone has 2 bikes....1, as they say, to ride....and 1 to get stolen.  So there are good ones and bad ones all over.  And the sounds of the bike bells and the tram bells still resounds in my ears.

The most exciting thing about Amsterdam is that the Rijksmuseum has completed its 10-year project and is fully operational.  When we were here last, 1/2 of the collections were not on display and many rooms were shut down.  This time.....everything was open and on view.  What a treat!!! Every painting you ever saw in any art class attributed to a Dutch Master is here...including the "Night Watch" by Rembrandt and the "Milkmaid" by Vermeer.  A real treat for the eyes.
And then, to make the day complete, you can do down the street to the Van Gogh Museum...which is mind-blowing.  This area is called the Museumplein..and also houses the street of all the major designer boutiques.

 After a day of museums, we wandered home along the Singel canal and crossed over to the floating flower market..the Bloemenmarkt  Locals come here to buy the plants they use all over their house...and have  done this for over 200 years.  The market is now permanent, but still use boats to see the flowers from.

If flowers are your thing, however, then a MUST...if you are lucky enough to be in Amsterdam during  the three months that the show is on....is the Keukenhof, which is the most beautiful spring garden in the world.  The Keukenhof is located on 32 hectares of land 30 minutes outside of Amsterdam on the other side of the airport.  There are millions of tulips, as far as the eye can see, in thousands of different varieties.   BUT, it is only one for 3 months, regardless of whether spring is early or late. In our case, Spring was early, and the flowers were almost gone.  But there were enough left to get the idea of how spectacular these fields are, and must have been.  IT is truly a site to see.

The Jordaan area in Amsterdam was once a working-class district, but is now becoming gentrified.   There are galleries and shops, with a lot of smaller canals. Within a couple of blocks is Waterlooplein, which was the heart of the Jewish quarter.  The Portugees Synagogue was built there in 1675 by the large community of Spanish Jews who fled from Spain the Portugal in the late 16th century. It still operates today for major holidays.  There is also a Jewish Historical Museum.  And a block or two away is the Flea market..open every day selling lots and lots of "Junque".  It was fun to see, but we didn't buy a thing!!

It did get us to the Rembrandthuis museum, however, where Rembrandt lived for 20 years until he went bankrupt and had to move to the Jordaan district.  Many of his etchings are still on display there.

I haven't mentioned food yet, because we ate at so many fun places...but "Dutch" food is really Indonesian (as in Dutch East Indies) and they pride themselves on their Rijsttafel (rice table).
You put a mound of rice in the center of your plate, and build around it with spoonfuls from your dishes of pork, meat, pimento and fish paste, soy beans, fried bananas, and mix it all up. This dish  tastes better than it sounds...but it is  really fun.  So is the beer...and the jenever (gin)  And I must confess, we went to a Pancake House for lunch one day and had the "Special".  Almost like flat crepes filled with apples, cinnamon and sugar.  How bad can that be?

We tended to walk to dinner, because it is hard taking a taxi...and besides, we needed the exercise after eating all those carbs! And in case I forgot to mention it, the cheese in Amsterdam is nothing short of amazing. I knew we couldn't bring it home, though, so we ate our weight in cheese during our stay.

Also, I haven't mentioned that the shopping in Amsterdam is a lot of fun ...especially on the 9 Little Streets...which are  filled with adorable boutiques of all kinds...even a toothbrush store!!   There are 3 streets of three blocks each filled with fun stuff...and a great "People Watching" area.

Every one of the three days we spent here was perfect.  And we really got to know the city fairly well. Navigating the canals is tricky, but since I have no sense of direction, it was all confusing. Dick got a much better sense of the city than I did...but I could get back to our hotel by foot.

I hope someday to return to this gorgeous city.  It is truly a treasure in every sense of the word.

Seabourne/ Barcelona to Amsterdam

At noon we boarded the Seabourn Quest in Barcelona which was to be our new home for the next 14 days.
This ship was built in 2011, carried 450 passengers,and is the quintessential ship afloat.
I can not speak too highly about the Quest...and Seabourn in general.  Suffice it to say that if elegance, style and class is what you seek in a criseship, this one has it all.  The cabins are large, and all the same...just on different decks.  The Seabourn Square is the heart of the ship, and there is a baristo making espresso and lattes right next to the computer space right next to the library...all in an open area accessible to the shops and casino.  It is a lovely spot to sit and relax...which is about what everyone was doing.

TANGIER, MOROCCO

We set sail from Barcelona for Tangier at 6PM the day we boarded and arrived 1/1/2 days later.  Amazing since it is so close to Spain...but we had to get south first, and then cross the Strait of Gibralter.
What a cosmopolitan city Tangier is.  It  has always been a city of international intrigue because everyone from every country has passed thru here on their way to somewhere else. Smugglers, spies and gangsters ruled the population here for a long time.....in real life and in the movies.  And it was hard to know who ruled Tangier at any given moment.  In fact, the city was put under the control of a consortium of 8 European powers in the early 1900's and it wasn't until Moroccan independence in 1956 that she joined the rest of Morocco.

  Of all the cities in Morocco, Tangier is usually the least favorite...not holding up to Marrakech, Fez or Rabat...but it can stand besides Casablanca in its medina and souk.  Regardless, it was great fun being back in Morocco, with its "Magic" carpets and gorgeous Berber jewelry.  We were only there from 8 to6....but everyone had a fun time and came back with some kind of treasure.  Someone  we met even bought a gorgeous inlaid chest for their beach home in California!!And it arrived in PERFECT condition.

PORTIMAO, PORTUGAL

From there we sailed down the coast of the Algarve in Portugal to the town of Portimao...the town at the mouth of the river which became a vital fishing port.The beach is exquisite and within walking distance of the ship.  It is dotted with free-standing rock formations which are amazing looking. This is a wonderful resort area and getting around is easy.

Lots of sardines come from here...and the Algarve offers a rich folk heritage as well as the sea and sun. This was truly the end of the world until the sailors learned there was more land after the horizon!!

LISBON, PORTUGAL

Then we arrived in Lisbon.  We have been here before, so it was so fun heading back and revisiting all the the landmarks.   Lisbon is the capital of Portugal as well as its largest city.  In fact, it is the westernmost large city located in all of  Europe as well as holding the title of one of the oldest cities in the world.  It predates Paris and Rome by hundreds of years.

A trip to the World Heritage Site Jeronimos Monastery is so worth it.  It was considered to be one of the most important symbols of Portugal's power  and wealth during the Age of Discovery  And buried inside are the tombs of Vasco da Gama, King Manuel1 and lots of major poets.  We ended up in Rossio Square which is considered the heart of Lisbon's downtown.  Shops and restaurants flank the entire square.  And even tho it was raining a bit, it was still fun.

Anyone who has been to Lisbon will remember the intricate mosaics on the pavements and the hand-painted tiles on the walls. And the trams (trolleys) are amazing.  I can still hear the clanging .

Lisbon is very low-key, and reminds me of a Mediterranean city...filled with flowers and music and coffee houses.  Not much hustle and bustle, which is what makes it so wonderful.  We didn't get to Sintra (the beach town) again this time....but there is always NEXT time.

PORTO, PORTUGAL (Leixoes)

Porto is the second-largest city in Portugal  and is located along the Douro Rives estuary in Northern Portugal.  The entire city is registered as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO because the Romans made it an outpost of its Empire. In Portuguese, O Porto means "The Port"...and it was this importance that made the city reign for years.  The 12th-century cathedral is most impressive.

LA CORUNA, SPAIN

Situated in the Bay of Biscay, where sailors needed to seek safety from the storm, lies La Coruna. It is, in reality, a sailor's town and served as a gateway for English pilgrims. It has the oldest lighthouse in existence and the only Roman lighthouse still in working order.  Quite something to see...which we did when we pulled out of town.

Pablo Picasso lived for 4 years in La Coruna during the Modernist period and held his first exhibition here.There are lots of art museums in this city worth visiting.  Also, the wines of the Galicia are very approachable and fun.

BRITTANY COAST--CHERBOURG, FRANCE

Since it was raining and windy, there were two ports in Brittany that we had to pass.  However, the captain was able to get us into Cherbourg for a "Look/See"...and it was fantastic.  I did so want an umbrella, but as Dick pointed out so succinctly, "It never rains in Southern California" and $450 USD is a bit "Cher" even for a yellow one.   It was during WWII that Cherbourg became so important.The Battle of Cherbourg was fought by the Allies immediately after the Normandy invasion, and the Germans. WERE SOUNDLY DEFEATED .  This ended the German occupation on June 30th and France got the port back.

ROUEN, FRANCE

Rouen sits on the north-west corner of France on the Seine, and is the capital of upper Normandy.  It was once one of the largest cities of medieval Europe and played a major role in the Middle Ages. It was one of the capitals of the Anglo-Norman dynasties which ruled both England and large parts of modern France for  4 centuries. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake here in 1431.

We hired a car and driver and drove to the Normandy beaches.  We saw Omaha Beach and Utah Beach and Juno Beach.  Even tho WWII is far in our history, it still felt amazing to be there, where so many young boys lost their lives fighting for an ideal.

We went to the American Cemetery where soldiers who died in World War II were buried. We saw the magnificent bushes halved at the top to signify a "life cut short"...and we walked thru the cemetery and looked at hundreds of markers. Such hallow ground. We were lucky enough to be there at the right time, because all of a sudden our flag was raised and a contingent of soldiers marched out while the "Star Spangled Banner" was being played.  And then there was a 21-gunsalute. AMAZING.   We beat President Obama there by 3 weeks!!!

On the return back, we went to Honfleur...which is a fantastic city.  It is so gorgeous, sitting right on the water, that we had to have mussels and frites and, of course, the local wine.  What a glorious day...topped off by a swing thru Deauville, just to see what everyone has told me about this gorgeous city.  I know we will come back here one day because we need to spend more time exploring.
That is the beauty of a cruise....you find out where and where-not you need to return!!

ANTWERP, BELGIUM

Never having done Flanders, this was really exciting.  Some people on the ship went to Bruges, some to Ghent, but we opted to stay in Antwerp, the home of the NATO headquarters and one of Europe's most important cities for business, politics and culture...and, oh yes, don't forget comic books like Tintin.  It was a Sunday, so lots of places were closed, but we could get a sense of what the city would be like bustling and hustling on Monday.

Besides major art and artists, the Flemish  pride themselves on their architecture.  Gothic churches prevail..with major alter pieces down by Jan van Eyck and Rubens and Frans Hals.  Amazing to see such art out in the open.

Antwerp sits on the Schelde River, which became very important when flooding widened it in the 15th Century. It then became the principal port until ruling parties  at any given moment, shut down the river. It went back and forth like that for centuries and it was only when Napoleon opened the river and constructed docks that the city began to grow again.  Today, it is thriving....rivaling the port cities of Hamburg and Rotterdam, and the government has raised money to help restore the town's great monuments even after the devastation during WWII.  The city looks pristine.

Well, we pulled into Amsterdam, and our glorious cruise was at an end.  We met wonderful people and shared lots of memories.  And we did it all in such splendor and grace that the memories of this ship almost equal the memories of the places visited.  It was a perfect trip...albeit the weather could have been a bit nicer.  Isn't that a real Californian thing to say?

I know we will be back to this part of the world....and I hope it is soon.

I will be posting Amsterdam very shortly.






Friday, June 27, 2014

Barcelona

What a joy to be back in this fantastic Mediterranean city after an absence of 5 years.

We were lucky enough to be able to have 3 days before embarking on our cruise from Barcelona to Amsterdam (post to follow)..and we took great advantage. 

Sundays in many cities are difficult...but not in Barcelona, because it is a walking city with treasures to view all the time. Because it is one of the busiest ports in the Mediterranean, its influence rivals many of the greatest European cities.  The fact that Barcelona hosted the Olympics is l992 cemented itself as a progressive, creative, artistic city.
We headed out of our hotel....the Majestic...which has a fantastic position on the Passeig de Graciela.
The hotel has been completely redone, and it is a splendid Grande Dame....repleat with a great restaurant, a great spa and a GREAT bar on the roof of the hotel with a view to make your heart sing.
The staff is fantastic...and it is quite a win-win for everyone.

We walked all around the Eixample area and looked again at all the Art Nouveau buildings.  The style is called Modernisme, which meant tearing down the midieval walls and letting the new city thrive.  Anton Gaudi was the main architect of Barcelona, and the Casa Mila...La Pedrera..is a neighbor of the Majestic.  People are there at all hours of the day and night, crawling all over.. taking pictures of this incredible apartment building built between 1906-1910.

 After completing the La Pedrera, Gaudi went on to "Finish" the church of the Sagrada Familia.  He devoted the rest of his life, from 1914 til 1926 , trying to finish it by adding rooms and changing things around. He was so obsessed, he even lived in the church in case he got ideas while he slept. Gaudi is buried in a crypt in the church and at that time only one tower was done.  Work is still being done today with public funds.  There are many towers today and the ediface is startling.

We then headed to La Rambla, and walked the entire length.  It is a bit seedy and very touristy...but one has to see this street.   It reminds me a bit of Venice Beach in Los Angeles...filled with all kinds of people, animals and restaurants.  At one time, Les Rambles was an old river bed along the water.  The Picasso Museum is situated there, as well, paying homage to the artist who lived in Barcelona from age 13-26.It is well worth the visit.

From there we wandered down to the port to see the Ritz Carlton and the new W.  It was a glorious day to walk along the sea...and we wouldn't have missed it for the world.

After all this, we taxied back to the hotel , changed for dinner, and headed to the Petit Comite for a FABULOUS Catalan dinner.  The sangria was amazing...and after that,t he dinner was PERFECT.
We got to bed exhausted, but exhilarated in seeing old/new parts of this city.

The next day, being Monday, we "Shopped til we Dropped".  Having done the museums the last time, and seeing Parc Guell before as well....we just did all the side streets off the Passeig and wound up having a typical Tapas lunch at one of the best restaurants in all of town...the Cataluna.  We had to wait about 40 minutes, but it was so worth it.  And we also wandered in and out of lovely stores while we waited.

That evening we ate at another wonderlful restaurant  called Botofumero.  It, too, was great.  Wish we had this taste at home....but things always are better in the home town.  Even the local wine is a treat.

Saying good-bye to Barcelona was hard, because it holds so many lovely memories.  We boarded the Seabourn Quest and stood on our balcony as the city faded from view. I hope we will be able to come back some day soon.  Until then, at least I got to refresh my memory.