Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Sonoma Coast Redux


If you have been following my blog, you know that we were in Bodega Bay in November.  BUT, we were one week too early for crab season, so we made a vow to come back to this area again while the crab were still there.  And this was the time.

We put Dolly into the car, and headed north to Bodega Bay.  It took about 10 hours, which seems long, but really wasn't, as we stopped whenever we needed a break...for whomever needed the break!!
We checked into the Bodega Coast Inn...a dog friendly hotel directly on Highway 1 with a lovely view of the bay and the marsh.  Lots of birds and wildlife.  We unpacked and headed down the 1 to have crabs at Lucas Wharf.  It was well worth waiting for, and the next time we will come to this area for a Crab Fest!!! Fresh crab is amazing, and we were not disappointed.

The next day we changed locations, as we wanted to be a bit more centrally located to explore the
Sonoma County environs, which stretch from the Pacific coast in the west to the Mayacamas Mountains in the east.
There are over 600,000 acres of vineyards with more than 300 wineries...and these wineries encompass the Carneros Valley the Russian River Valley and the Alexander Valley..just to name a few of the areas.

The whole countryside is nothing short of spectacular...rugged, scenic and amazingly dramatic.  And did I no mention that there are the redwood forests, the apple orchards ...and the zenlike farms with grazing cows, goats and sheep.  This is truly a sight for the senses...in every manner. Whether you enjoy history or geography or sports or true relaxation, the Sonoma coast has it all.  Towns that attract artists, farmers, oenophiles, nature-lovers and foodies....it is all here.

This trip we opted to stay at the Union Hotel...in the town of  Occidental, CA.  The Union Hotel  was established in 1879...and has been a staple in Occidental ever since.
Now, before going any further, let me explain that this "Hotel" is a restaurant...and the "hotel" consists of  various guest houses  that the Gonnella family rents out to discerning visitors.  Each house is amazing in its own right, and there is a one-bedroom bungalow, a 2-bedroom home, two 3-bedroom homes and one in progress.  The proprietess of the Union is Barbara Gonnella.  Her husband is part of the third generation of the Gonnella family who has owned the Union since 1924. And Barbara's family is also one of the founding families in Occidental.  Their union was truly a merger!!! When you stay with them, you feel like part of the family as well..and that is saying a lot in today's hospitality market.

One of the guest houses called The Lodge, is a gorgeous Tuscan Villa.  It  has 3 bedrooms, a gorgeous pool and a dining room with a table that seats 12.  It sits on a formidable piece of property that has an amphitheater where weddings are performed...as well as concerts in the summer.  It is a spectacular place  in the middle of a cleared grove of gorgeous trees.

Everywhere you look on the Sonoma coast, there is a fantastic site for the senses.  And after a while, your eye just gets used to seeing something wonderful.  You can understand why people choose to live a quieter life .  And whether they were and are and  farmers or canners, or artists or beekeepers, weavers or cheesemakers...everything works up here.

We spent three glorious days going from town to town, exploring what they had to offer in the way of history, food and goods.  And we didn't even make a dent.  We were in Jenner, Duncan Mills and all over the Russian River area.  We drove thru Monte Rio  looking for the famous Bohemian Grove.
And then we went to Graton, Freestone to the Wild Flour Bakery, and then to Sebastopol..home of the Gravenstein apple.  We went down to Pt. Reyes Station to get some Cowgirl Creamery cheese, and stopped in Marshall along the Tomales Bay to have fresh oysters for lunch!!! What a treat. They farm  Sweetwater oysters and Hog Island Oysters all around there.  And I don't even love them...but I enjoyed them immensely there.

And then we would come back to our bungalow, build a fire and recant the finds of the day.  Barbara has stocked the bungalow with the most amazing kitchen....the next time we come up, I will do some selective marketing in each of the towns, and come back and prepare it myself.  .......And then again.....maybe not.

Now that we are getting to know the Sonoma Coast and Sonoma County, it will be a difficult choice to make between Napa and here.  I think I know my decision.  Let's see if Dick agrees.